If I own a farm someday, I would want it to be like this...
Note the ocean in the background |
Squatters |
Middletown, RI- There are few farms as transparent as Simmons Organic Farm. When I arrived, there had been a miscommunication and they were not expecting me, but Karla was still happy to talk with me while she packaged a new type of crumbly goat cheese she had just made. When we finished chatting, Karla let me walk around the 120-acre farm unaccompanied to take pictures. First I shot some photos of the dairy and fainting goats in the petting zoo by the parking lot. Then I made my way up the hill; my mental map looked a bit like this: Belted Galloway cows to the left, sheep at the crest of the hill, vegetables to the left just before the sheep, pigs a bit further down the hill after it crests, and chickens up the hill and to the right of the pigs. While marching up the hill, I see a mother duck and her three babies; they are not official members of the farm, but given the landscape, it is understandable why they would want to live here. The farm looks like a nature walk. On either side of the path are thick grasses and plants. There is a notable amount of butterflies fluttering around the farm, and there is a soothing chirping sound coming from the tall grasses. Once I surmounted the hill, my jaw-dropped because there was a stunning ocean view; Simmons Organic Farm is quite the spectacle.
The
history of the farm is equally as interesting as the landscape. In 1632, John
Coggeshall of Essex, England arrived in Boston and shortly moved south to
settle on Aquidneck Island, RI. He was allotted 400 acres and today Simmons
Organic Farm is comprised of 120 of these acres. By the mid 1800s, David
Coggeshall owned majority of this land and started one of the largest dairy
farms in Rhode Island. His daughter Elizabeth married John L. Simmons. Their
children and grandchildren maintained the farm through the early and mid
twentieth century. In 1988, the grown up grandchildren Alexander Sr. and James
decided to sell the farm’s development rights in order to preserve the farm for
future generations. Brian and Karla, who currently run the farm, took over in 2000.
They grew up together as high school sweet hearts and moved back onto the
family farm while Brian’s grandparents were still working there. Over a
three-year span Brian and Karla became more and more involved on the farm. One
day, Brian’s grandparents gave Brian and Karla ownership of the farm, and they
have been running it together ever since.
Will faint for food |
From
the time that they started working on the farm, Brian and Karla knew that they
wanted to make the farm certified organic. After three transition years, they
became organic certified in 2004. They are very happy with this decision. Karla
is aware of the growing consumer preference for local and organic produce and
meat. She is glad that her farm is able to offer both of these things. Simmons
Organic Farm continues to grow in success. This year they have over 300 members
in their CSA; they usually have 40. Brian and Karla have also seen a recent increase
in the number of visitors to their petting zoo.
There
are many different operations occurring on the farm. Simmons Organic Farm
raises Belted Galloway beef cows. They chose this heritage breed because the
cows have a thicker mane, which allows them to stay outside year round, with
the exception of blizzards. They are 100% grass fed and spend all of their time
in spacious pastures. They also raise red Tamworth pigs, which are a heritage
breed of pigs known for their hardiness. The pigs were in a large pen that had
many trees and shady spots inside of it. The hogs and piglets were happily running
around and rolling in the dirt when I saw them. Simmons Organic Farm also has
pastured raised poultry and eggs. They also have a mobile poultry house. When I
visited, one chicken had bravely escaped then pen, although she was hesitant to
stray far from the others. For a brief minute I thought the Simmons had a small
poultry flock, and then I realized that this was an optical illusion and that
the chickens just had a ton of space. They also have 50 dairy goats and about
20 sheep. They donate the wool to the Rhody Warm Project and sell the meat.
This
is also a biodynamic farm. The animals are used to reduce pests on the farm.
Since pesticides cannot be used on organic farms, the Simmons get creative with
how to keep unwanted visitors off of their plants. In the fall and early
winter, the cows are moved to the vegetable plots to eat the extra produce.
Chickens follow after the cows and eat the stems, stalks, and insect larvae
left by the cows. This method reduces the amount of returning insects for the
next year. Karla notes that they have not had many problems with pests as a
result of this practice.
A
new exciting product Simmons Organic Farm now offers is goat cheese! Karla has
been experimenting with making goat cheese for several years. Only in 2011 did
she begin selling it at markets and distributing it in the CSA. Once they
determined that the goat cheese production was a feasible plan, they received a
grant from the USDA Farm Service Agency to build their cheese operation. They
built the structure on the farm near the famous petting zoo. They now have a
large cheese making and processing vessel that enables her to make 600
containers of cheese per week. Karla has been experimenting with different
types of goat cheese. Currently offered at farmers’ markets is a delicious
chevre, which comes in many different flavors ranging from herbs de Provence to
Chipotle. When I visited, Karla was packaging a new type cheese, a goat cheese
crumble, flavored with herbs de Provence or garlic. She also hopes to start making feta soon. The goat cheese project has been very
successful and I highly recommend buying some for yourself at the farmers’
market.
Speaking
with Karla and Brian was an absolute pleasure. They seem in touch with the
current markets and aware of how unique and progressive their farm is. Karla
loves working here because it always feels like she is doing something new and
different on the farm. She also likes the idea of providing food for her family
as well as 300 other families in the area. Karla explains that at Simmons
Organic Farm, they “try to do things the right way. We try to be good stewards
to our land and to our animals because they provide us lots.” Brian appreciates
the farm just as much. When I met him on the hilltop, he told me about how
sometimes he forgets about how lucky he is to own such a wonderful farm. But
then he’ll be working, look up and see the sunset over the pastures looking
onto the ocean and feel like the luckiest guy in the world. All are welcome to
visit Simmons Organic Farm and petting zoo, and if you cannot make the trip
down, they sell at several farmers markets and to Market Mobile so that anyone
can have the joy of eating the food they produce.