Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Tamales for the Holidays!





For the last few years, it has been a tradition that during the holidays my family and Guadalupe (our babysitter/second mom) make tamales together. It's a long process. Today it took four hours with five people working. As much as I would love to share the recipe, there are so many different fillings (pork, 2 chickens, and peppers with cheese), types of masa, and preparation methods that I wouldn't even know where to begin. In all honesty, my family is still learning all of the parts. I do not think that any of us could make a full tamale. Each part takes so long that you have to divvy up the work, so we each only know a few steps. For example, today I was assigned to "The Ring of Fire". This is where you turn on the gas stove and pile green hot peppers over the flames and turn them until they are evenly charred. Although now I feel like a pro at this step, I have no idea how the meats were prepared!  Anywho, I hope you enjoy these photos. No more reading-- just take in the pictures and enjoy.


Pork


Tomatilla Sauce


Cleaning peppers after the ring of fire


2 Different Fillings


Chopped green peppers, orange masa has blended red peppers (see above) in it, white masa is behind it.

Masa. It's made fresh daily by La Palma in San Francisco

One of the Shredded Chickens



Pork

The tamales are steamed under some of the unused husks.


Momma Tamale!

Happy Holidays!!!

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Maple Syrup Bread




The Ultimate Game Changer in the Bread World...for me

As is only appropriate during midterms, I seem to have acquired a bug in my stomach. Immediately defaulting to the BRAT (bread, rice, applesauce, toast) diet, I began wondering how to make these four basic foods more interesting. In addition, I have been think about how to appease a sour stomach while still incorporating protein and vegetables. That's all bull, well not really, but I made a fabulous dinner tonight consisting of steamed spinach, a fried organic free range egg, and maple syrup bread.

You can figure out how to cook and egg and how to steam spinach. More importantly, here is the bread recipe. This recipe is awesome because you get a sweet crust that is balanced by sea salt in the crust's "sauce". The bread was super light, airy, and moist. The basic bread is adapted from Anissa Helou's "Savory Baking from the Mediterranean: Focaccias, Flatbreads, Rusks, Tarts, and Other Breads".










Ingredients:
Makes 1 small loaf: this was clearly not enough
  1. 3-4 tablespoons maplesyrup
  2. 1 packet of yeast (active dry)
  3. white flour
  4. a dash of olive oil
  5. salt
  6. water
Directions:
  1. In a small bowl, combine 1 packet of yeast with about 2 tablespoons of warm water. Stir together until creamy, and let sit for 2 minutes. Then, add about 1/3 cup of flour to the yeast. It may be necessary to adjust the proportions a tad, but you want a goopy looking blob of dough, some may call it the biga. It should be able to hold its form of a blob, it should not be runny.
  2. Put one cup of flour  and 1/2 tsp of salt in the bottom of a larger bowl. Add the biga blob to the flour, on top of it, do not stir it in, and then add 3/4 cup of flour on top of the big to cover it. Let rise underneath a towel in a draft free space for 4-8 hours. I only gave it 4.
  3. Take 1/2 cup of warm water and 1 1/2 tablespoons of maple syrup. Stir together so that it looks like watered down coca-cola. Add this mixture to the flour and biga and begin to mix together. Keeping add this ratio of water and maple syrup to the dough until it was an elastic texture. Knead for 3 minutes and then invert the bowl on the dough for 15 minutes.
  4. Knead the dough for another seven minutes. Let the dough rise for 1 hour.
  5. Fold the dough... I watched a video on youtube and this seemed to work swell. I always feel like I do this part wrong, so watch below if you are unsure. 
  6. Let the dough rise for 1.5 more hours in the bowl covered by a kitchen towel in a warm area.
  7. Remove the dough from the bowl and place on a baking sheet. Let the dough recover from the movement and just let it sit for about 15 minutes.
  8. Heat the oven to 400F. Place a pan in the bottom rack of the oven to heat with the oven.
  9. In a glass, or bowl, mix together 2 tablespoons of olive oil with 2 table spoons (or more!) of maple syrup and about 1/4 tsp of sea salt. Spread the mixture on top of the dough
  10. Put the dough in the oven. In the pan below it, add 3-9 ice cubes.
  11. Close the door and let cook for 17-25 minutes or until the bottom of the loaf sounds hard when you tap it and the top of the loaf is golden.
  12. While the bread is cooking, steam up some spinach and fry an egg! 
PS. In the course of writing this post, I may have already finished eating the loaf.

Friday, October 22, 2010

Escobar's Higland Farm: A Member of Rhody Fresh Milk



    
  
Louis Escobar
     I had the pleasure of visiting Escobar’s Highland Farm and talking with Louis Escobar, the current owner. His father founded the farm in the 1920s, and Louis inherited the farm, after his father passed away in 1974. Today the farm is 98 acres in size. The land is used for a variety of reasons beyond just raising dairy cows. Much of it is utilized for agri-entertainment, which consists of a pumpkin patch, Christmas trees, and a corn maze. Louis explained that the farm was unable to support itself on the dairy-based income alone, so they began offering other services as a second source of revenue. This is common among Rhode Island dairy farmers. The profit margin for fluid milk is minimal, because large milk companies are able to undercut prices. In Rhode Island this has become a huge problem, and now there are only sixteen dairy farms in the entire state. Escobar’s Highland Farm is a perfect example of a farm that struggles to survive, as a result of large-scale industrial farming. What it has done in order to stay in business is particularly interesting from certain perspectives. Today I will look at this farm’s history, its involvement in the creation of Rhody Fresh milk, and what this farm in particular has done to make itself stand out against its larger competitors.

           In order to preserve the local dairy industry, Escobar’s Highland Farm and eight other farms joined together in 2004 to create Rhody Fresh. This is a milk cooperative, where by pooling their product, the small farms are able to serve a larger population, while decreasing the financial burdens of dairy farming by dispersing them amongst the eight farms.  All of the dairy farms in Rhode Island were initially invited to partake in Rhody Fresh. The milk is processed and packaged at Guida’s Dairy in New Brittan, CT. Having one label also allows consumers to know that they are supporting local dairy as a whole. In addition, by processing and packaging the nine dairy farms’ milk together, the products’ prices are able to compete with conventional milk prices. Rhody Fresh certainly typifies power in numbers. The co-op has been incredibly successful; within six months of starting Rhody Fresh, they surpassed their three-year financial goal.

      Escobar’s Highland Farm’s vitality is also due in part to the Aquidneck Land Trust. In 2005, the trust placed a conservation easement on 75 acres of the farm that protects it from ever being developed or used for anything other than farmland. This easement also preserves the open space that the farm provides to the community. The neighbors surrounding Escobar’s Highland Farm are also incredibly supportive. They appreciate the open space that the farm provides as well as recognizes the importance of maintaining local dairy operations.

Cows that are part of the 4-H program
            Louis also is conscientious of the farm’s environmental and social responsibilities. He regularly has the farm’s soil analyzed, in order to make sure that it is nutrient-rich and balanced. The farm has considerable acreage devoted to grassy open spaces. The cows are also fed a balanced diet of “Louis Escobar’s Feed”. This is a combination of whole stocks of corn, silage, grain, and hay. A nutritionist tests the cows regularly and has the feed adjusted accordingly so that the cows are always fed what they need. The cows are only milked twice a day in order to reduce stress on the animal. They are kept in open-air barns and taken for walks in pastures when weather permits. There are also outside pens that the younger cows stay in. These cows are used in the 4-H program. The purpose of this program is youth development. Participants can work on Escobar’s Highland Farm and learn responsibility and independence, by taking care of a cow. Through years of compiled knowledge, Escobar’s Highland Farm has managed to create a balanced and beneficial environment for everyone involved in the operation.

Open air barns
            It is difficult to watch Escobar’s Highland Farm struggle to stay in business. On one hand, the value of local agriculture is important. The fact that the local dairy farms are struggling to make profits is deflating.  I commend Escobar’s Highland Farm for using unconventional strategies in order to stay afloat. I have a feeling that Louis would rather use the farmland for more grazing pasture space instead of a profit making corn maze.  At the same time though, it is also hard to accept that they inadvertently reduced grazing space for the cows in order to increase profit.



This experience, among many others this summer, makes me question how much a farm can give up for the sake of staying in business. Where does one, both as a consumer and as a producer, draw the line between supporting local agriculture and supporting one’s environment? In regard to the cow’s quality of life and quality of product, how much is the consumer willing to give up for the sake of local? This is a question that I struggled with frequently this summer. Farm Fresh was clear that they valued local over anything else, but I do not think that I do.  When I left Escobar Highland Farm, I was distressed to see so many cows corralled into a muddy and confined space. When I drink milk, I prefer to imagine and wish to support farms where the cows have lots of grazing space and pasture to live off of. In reality, these ideals are difficult to achieve when running a small local business. But again, if this is not exactly an option in some states, how does a consumer find that balance and support certain ideals without destroying an entire population of local farmers that do not have the financial means to operate under ideal circumstances? I believe it is important to support Rhody Fresh and Escobar’s Farm in particular given its environmental and social efforts. Even with the challenges at hand, Escobar’s Highland Farm has done its best to not jeopardize the quality of its products and has worked tirelessly to preserve the historic and cultural values derived from local dairy. Rhody Fresh can be purchased at a variety of grocers in Rhode Island such as: Dave’s, Stop & Shop, Whole Foods Market, Brigido’s, CVS/pharmacy, Belmont, Eastside Marketplace, and Shaws as well as many local restaurants.



Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Update

I apologize for not posting anything for the past few weeks. I have been preparing to study abroad. There will be posts while I am here in Edinburgh. Some posts will still be about farms from RI, maybe some about farms in Scotland, and of course recipes. I've just been a bit behind preparing for a new country. Apologies.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

One Tart









This is THE ONE TART that is absolutely foolproof. My dear kitchenly challenged roommate even feels comfortable baking it. The trick is that each ingredient is one of some sort of measurement. The best aspect of this tart is that not only is it unforgettable in regard to both the recipe and flavor, but it is undeniably delicious. I have never had leftovers from this tart. It is so easy that upon any last minute request, you can easily put together this guaranteed hit. Also, any seasonal fruit compliments the tart. In this edition, I put slivered peaches on the bottom of the tart pan and blueberries on the top. It made a hit recipe receive even more positive reviews than ever! The images shown are with a double recipe.

Ingredients:
1 egg
1 stick of butter
1 cup of white granulated sugar
1 cup of flour
Zest of 1 lemon
1 Teaspoon of vanilla
1 Pinch of salt.


Feeling Fancy?
3 thinly slice ripe peaches, or any stone fruit
1 Cup of blueberries



Directions:
  1. Preheat the oven to 350F
  2. Scant (thinly slice) one stick of cold butter. Combine the butter and sugar in a mixing bowl. Beat the two together using an electric mixer until smooth.
  3.  Add the egg.
  4. Mix in the flour, salt, vanilla, and zest of one lemon. Beat until well mixed.
  5. Optional: If you are choosing the peaches route, thinly slice peaches and make one layer of them in the bottom of a tart pan.
  6. Evenly distribute the dough mix over the peaches. The dough may be rather viscous; it is totally acceptable to use your hands.
  7. Optional: Dribble the blueberries on top of the dough.
  8. Bake in the oven for approximately thirty minutes or until the top is golden brown.



Thursday, August 26, 2010

Baffoni's Poultry Farm




Turkeys on raised platforms
Several weeks ago I visited Baffoni’s Poultry Farm. It took me awhile to write about the farm because I was overwhelmed by the shear mass of poultry. Interestingly enough, Baffoni’s Farm is not even that large,compared to most poultry farms. They raise a total of 25,000 chickens and 1,200 turkeys. They also collect hundreds of eggs a day. What was interesting about this farm was that, although there were many aspects of the farm that could be improved, it still was operating above conventional poultry farming standards. I also learned that poultry farming is complicated because there are many more factors that go into production cost than one would first think. In this post, I want to discuss several topics regarding poultry farming. The first goal is to present the history of Baffoni’s Poultry Farm. The second is to provide an overview of poultry farming and some subtopics, such as cage-free versus free range chickens, hatcheries, and debeaking.  The third topic I wish to address and advocate for is why you should support Baffoni’s Poultry Farm and go deeper into why it took me so long to write about. This is important because the concept of food in mass quantities is a bit repulsive, yet realistically, this is how the majority of our food is produced. I am very interested in your response to the images because I still feel uncomfortable looking at the pictures I took. I found them rather unsettling and creepy but I do not know how to articulate an explanation for these feelings.


Baffoni’s is an eighty-acre farm that was founded in 1935. It began as a very small poultry farm and slowly expanded over the years.In 1973 the farm was inherited by the Baffoni brothers, one being Don our tour guide (“our” being  Hannah, a Farm Fresh employee that went to the farm with me). Each family member tends to different tasks, ranging from upkeep, gardening, running the farm store, processing, etc. They work together and productively. In order to make ends meet, however, most of them also have to work elsewhere. Although working two jobs is common among farmers, it strikes me as incredibly difficult considering there is so much to do on this farm. Baffoni’s Poultry Farm maintains a small- sized vegetable garden, raises thousands of poultry, process all of the meat onsite, maintains a family store, collects, washes, and sorts hundreds of eggs daily, and raises their own chicks. Everything is done on site, which is a tremendous amount of labor for only eight employees total.


All of the eggs collected that morning
The amount of work is amplified by the farm’s goal for high quality products. They certainly value quality over quantity, which can also be seen in their processing plant. They only process 750 chickens a week in order to insure that their product is always top-notch. Don noted that every day they completely sell out. Doing everything onsite also allows their products to remain well priced. 

Baffoni’s Poultry are cage free but not free range. Cage free means that the poultry lives in pens or in barns, where as free range chickens have access to the outdoors. It is not that the people at Baffoni’s Farm do not want to give their poultry time outside, but predators become a large issue when poultry is free range. Predators such as eagles and foxes can enter a farm and attack poultry that has access to the outdoors. Free range poultry creates fiscal and safety risks for a farm that cage free does not. This practice is not very sensible for a small family farm such as Baffoni’s.

Baby Turkeys
 Cage free, however, is still a humane way of raising poultry. They are all fed 100% natural vegetarian feed. They are raised onsite, starting as baby chicks in large warm barns; the chicks are bought from a hatchery, which I will go into more later. As they grow older, they are moved to larger spaces. The turkeys live on a large, fenced-in platforms outside. There are 275 turkeys in each 1500 square foot platform; this is plenty of room for them to move around. The platforms are elevated so that their waste falls in between the slotted floor. The chickens and laying hens have similar arrangements. They too can run around freely in large indoor pens.  In the adjacent images, it will look much more cramped than it is. This is because, depending on the age, the chickens would either run towards or away from Hannah and me. The baby chicks were more afraid and huddled together at the back of the pens as far away from us as possible. The turkeys that were a few months old were very curious about us. They ran towards the front of the door, which makes them look very crowded in the photos. Keep in mind, there was tons of empty space behind them. The broad breasted Cornish broiler poultry are the chickens that are seated; they were fully-grown and very hot from the heat wave. The laying-hens were not afraid of us and a little too close for comfort. They pecked at our legs and surrounded us. Each of the poultry’s quarters had ample space.  In addition, these cage free animals all had access to plenty of sunlight and fresh air.  In each barn there were multiple large screen windows where sunlight poured in.
Broad Breasted Cornish Broiler Chickens

Cage free animals’ health is also much better than caged livestock’s. Hannah and I were allowed to walked around in some of the pens; unlike many poultry operations, thee chickens and hens were so healthy that they could be exposed to humans without the worry of their getting sick, or about us getting sick for that matter. The poultry’s living conditions are of remarkable standards, especially considering how many livestock they maintain.*

Baffoni’s Farm purchases chicks from a hatchery. This is so that they only get female chicks. Male chicks are considered relatively useless on farms. It makes more sense for one hatchery to distribute baby male chicks to multiple farms looking for one or two future roosters than it does to raise your own chicks. Male chicks born on farms are generally killed immediately in ways that you can look up yourself (warning).  It is more humane and efficient for a small farm like Baffoni’s to purchase chicks from hatcheries than it does to incubate and cultivate fertilized eggs themselves.
Laying Hens (top and bottom left),
Baby Turkeys that have already been debeaked

As the chicks grow into turkeys and chickens, the turkeys and laying-hens are debeaked while the chickens are not. Debeaking is the process by which part of a fowl’s beak is sliced off or burned off so that it is less sharp and dangerous to its fellow mates. Animal right’s activists are opposed to debeaking because, well, if you were a turkey, would you enjoy having your beak burned off? In conventional farming practices, this is done because caged poultry become aggressive in close quarters, attack each other, and act cannibalistically. They will do severe, irreparable damage to one another when put too close together. However, this farm debeaks the turkeys for another reason. When a turkey gets sick or injured, the other turkeys will attack it and sometimes kill it or, again, eat it. This is not good because many minor sickness and injuries are temporary. Don says that the turkeys are debeaked because the damage their beaks can do to one another outweighs the positive arguments for not debeaking them. On the other hand (or should we say hen), the laying- hens are also very aggressive and debeaked for similar reasons. The broad breasted broiler chickens are not debeaked. They are docile compared to the other two. Don uses the same logic. The damage that the other poultry can do to one another does not outweigh the affects of debeaking. The chickens do less damage to one another, and therefore, it is unnecessary to debeak them.
Large Barn for laying-hens

After visiting Baffoni’s Poultry Farm, I was faced with a reality of farming that is less than pleasant because mass produced food is unappetizing, baby turkeys look like dinosaurs, and chances are that Baffoni’s farm provides an environment for their poultry that is exponentially better than most. Of course, we all want our chicken to run around in unrestrained spaces, consume a completely natural diet, and not be debeaked. Unfortunately, those circumstances are generally unrealistic. Don told me about a woman who had her chickens processed at Baffoni’s slaughterhouse. She raised them in the “ideal” conditions I just described. Apparently, the chickens were only skin and bone. She and Don agreed that the meat was practically inedible and barely worth cooking because there was so little of it. Ideal living conditions for poultry does not create ideal tasting conditions for consumers. Don also has experienced this with his broad breasted Cornish broiler chickens. Even though it is slightly harder for these chickens to move around because they are bred to have larger breasts, consumers do not want anything smaller. In regard to the mass production issue, it is something I just need to get passed or I really need to start my own farm. If these pictures are unappetizing to you, you can also look into raising your own chickens. If you live in Rhode Island, you are voting about urban chickens soon and should watch this movie: Mad City Chicken.

After several weeks of internal debate, I have concluded that Baffoni’s Poultry Farm is one I will support. It is has enlightened me to the fact that I do need to visit any poultry or meat farm that I consume products from. If you have the time, I highly recommend you do this yourselves. This farm really made me question if eating most chicken was worth it. Honestly, I say yes now, but I am not sure how long that will last. There are a lot of other issues to address in regard to a poultry farm such as ammonia levels, waste contamination, general environmental issues, slaughterhouses, etc. Below are some pictures of where all of the poultry is slaughtered onsite. When I have time, hopefully I will be able to present more information about these issues, but I think this post has been long enough. If you are interested in trying Baffoni’s products, you can purchase Baffoni’s Poultry at a variety of local restaurants in the Rhode Island area, their farm store, or at the following farmers’ markets in Rhode Island: Barrington, Pawtucket/ Slater Mill, and Pawtucket Wintertime.


* Don later told me that most farm tours at Baffoni's are not allowed in the barns. We were allowed in given Farm Fresh's relationship to the farm. But still, look at the egg crisis that is going on right now! We  still were able to go in. The amount of space and healthy environment these poultry are in is clearly above conventional standards!
 Other Fun Photos:

Hundreds of eggs are collected a day. Then they are washed in the machine shown in the middle. The eggs get sorted by size and are hand packed.

The Processing Center:
1. The chickens are first killed. 2. A picture of the entire processing plant. 3. At 160F, the chickens are sanitized. 4. The de-feathering machine. 5. The chickens are hand inspected to make no feathers are missed. 6. The poultry is cut, gutted, and iced. After the processing is completed, minutes later you can purchase your products at the farm store connected to the processing center.



Monday, August 23, 2010

Red Bell Peppers Stuffed with Brown Rice, Onion, and Oyster Mushrooms


Red Bell Peppers Stuffed with Brown Rice, Onion, and Oyster Mushrooms


These stuffed peppers turned out surprisingly well. There were six red bell peppers in the house that desperately needed to be consumed. What the purchaser was thinking buying six red bell peppers is beyond me, but the family had to make due. I concocted this recipe on a whim, and it turned out surprisingly well. The roasted red peppers ended up being moist and flavorful. They did not taste mushy and were very tender. They almost tasted grilled without the inevitable black char that always seems to happen when you grill peppers. The rice was also very tastey. My approach was a combination of risotto style cooking meets traditional rice cooking. This is a recipe that is perfect to serve to a vegetarian at a dinner party, or if you are looking to try something simple and new.  It is also a good recipe because you can make adjustments according to your personal preference. For example, feel free to alter the pepper levels or water-broth-wine rations. Read through the recipe before you begin.

Serves 6 as entrée, 12 as appetizer (cut in half)
Time: 1.5 hours… brown rice takes a lot longer than you (I) think

We actually ended up eating them for dessert because the rice took its sweet time. Then again, it says something that every member of my family thought they tasted unbelievably good even though they were full from dinner part one.

Ingredients:
6 Ripe Red Bell Peppers
Olive Oil
Salt
Pepper
Red pepper chili flakes
Cayenne pepper
¼ tsp Honey
½-3/4 cup coarsely chopped oyster mushrooms (or any whatever fungi fits your fancy)
½ white onion coarsely chopped (3/4 cup)
3 cloves of garlic coarsely chopped
½ cup of white wine
32 ounces vegetable oil
1 ½ cup brown rice
Parmesean cheese (shredded)

Tools:
Medium sized Cast Iron Pot
Baking Dish
Small sautée pan


1.                    Preheat oven to 250F. Wash the bell peppers and cut of the tops. Core the peppers. Brush the baking dish with olive oil. Brush the outside of the bell peppers with olive oil. Put the bell peppers cut side down onto the baking sheet and put in the oven for one hour.
2.              Meanwhile, in a medium size cast iron pot, pour in a thin layer of olive oil. Turn up the flame to medium heat and add the three cloves of chopped garlic and the ½ onion that has been coarsely chopped. Measure out 1 cup of vegetable broth and set aside. You may continue with the rest of the steps. If the bell peppers finish before the rice is ready, simply turn off the oven and let them rest in there.
3.              In a separate pan, turn the heat on medium-low and add another thin layer of olive to a small non-stick sauté pan. Add the mushrooms. First they will look too dry, but don’t worry, within five minutes the mushrooms will release their juices and all will be ok.  Add ¼ tsp of salt, ¼ tsp of honey, one shake of red pepper chili flakes, and literally a splash of white wine (about 1-2 tablespoons).  Stir occasionally.
4.              As you monitor both pans, stir both from time to time. When the onions turn translucent, add the rice and mix around so that it has a small coat of oil on it too. Add one to two cups of vegetable broth and ½ of water to the rice- onion mixture and stir. You want there to be plenty of liquid but the rice should not be submerged. Add a few shakes of salt, and 2-3 “shakes” of cayenne pepper to the rice.
5.              When the mushrooms have released their liquid and taste like cooked mushrooms (about five minutes) pour the mushrooms into the rice.
6.              Stir the rice. When the liquid begins to be absorbed add another cup of water and the remaining wine. Continue to stir. Add more water and broth in small batches for about twenty minutes.
7.              Then add the remaining vegetable broth, the 1 cup of broth that you set aside before and some more water in the rice. The liquid should not be fully covering the rice, but there should certainly be an excess amount of liquid. Put the cover on the rice, turn the burner to low heat for ten minutes.
8.              Stir the rice. If it looks dry add any remaining broth or wine you have open lying around. If you have run out, just add water, it will be fine. Again, add enough liquid so that the rice will not burn within the next fifteen minutes. About 1 cup. Place the lid back on the pot and wait another ten minutes. Stir again at ten and place lid back on for another five minutes.
9.              Remove the lid. Taste your rice. Hopefully it’s done. If not, keep treating the rice like risotto. Add liquid, stir, rice absorbs liquid, and repeat this cycle until the rice is moist, soft and delicious.
10.           Remove the rice from heat. Remove the peppers from the oven. Turn the peppers back over (top side up) and begin filling them with the rice. Sprinkle a thin layer of parmesean cheese on each pepper. Put them back in the oven so the cheese melts and enjoy!